A few weeks ago I got an email from Phase One Surf supporter and rider Mike Villa. He asked me if Phase One Surf was big in Canada…I said we ship quite a few boards across the border. He then followed up with a link to a spread in Canada’s largest surf magazine SBC Surf. I was stoked to literally see a 2 page photo spread with a surfer with our board charging some northern snow covered surf in the Great Lakes. Yes..I said snow, great lakes, and surf in the same sentence.
A great story has suspense, builds history and is very sexy…at the 0’Neill World Cup of Surfing second jewel of the Vans Triple Crown. Two Hawaiians(H) and two Australians (A) entered the finals on the last day of contest, Sunny Garcia (H), Dusty Payne (H), Joel Parkinson (Parko) (A) and Mick Fanning (A).
The battle was set with some of the largest surf in the history of this competition with heavy to handle 15-25’ out over the reef. Three minutes into the 35 minute final Sunny Garcia established top rating 9.4.7 with his jarring barrel ride and clear through the bowl with his neat and clean exit.Here at Sunset the bowl – surf center- is deep and steep making wide eyes of any surfer… As the TV stations inventoried the crowd Sunny seemed the clear winner.
These gentlemen settled into their slots and with 13 minuets left into the contest the line up looked like Dusty Payne in 4th place needing over 12.4 points to get into the lead, Mick Fanning in third with a last wave coming in at 4.83, Joel Parkinson in 2nd place scoring a 7.0 wave with lots of speed, carving on the high rails and Sunny Garcia’s high 9.4 wave and 3.4 on the low side. Even Sunny could not improve on his lowest wave bottoming out on some and some way too-early wave collapsing around him.
Despite repeated efforts by all on the field no upset foreseen and 2:10 min remaining the biggest sets of the final were visible. We moved into 1Min 15 sect looking to the left we see red shirted Dusty Payne making a last attempt looking for a combo ride and ending in the white.55 seconds and high in the West in yellow (Parko) carves into the crest, picks up a barrel with secure a stand followed by clean exit and entrance into a second barrel emerging with winning points - pulling through a remarkable upset.
Parko makes history as the second man to win this contest three times he ties with legendary Hawaiian Michael Ho.As for the sexy, well the pictures tell that part of the story.
As the last of the almost three score of the worlds most courageous surfers emerged to shore the rain started growing in intensity as a testament that the opening ceremony for the 25thQuicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau had concluded and the celebration was underway. Under tents guests and major name surfers gathered for food and surf talk enveloped by live music and the ascent of night. Who cares about the rain!
We were privileged and blessed to be present among the royalty of big wave surfing for this inspiring and sacred opening ceremony. They sat together, in a circle and with their board. tips facing center. We spotted many Eric Arakawa boards. They called each name, beginning with six no longer among us and continuing through names that appear in any surfing magazine, brothers who made the glossy pages while surfing Mavericks last week, another from France, several Aussies, a surfer from Chile and another from Spain. Names like Slater, Carroll, and Garcia on and on. Several men who have made this ceremony for all of its 25 years, others who have surfed the actual contest and won…this was a revered moment and everyone knew it.
Kahu Billy Mitchell, a Hawaiian holy man, blessed them and all of us. He spoke of the spirit of the gathering. The magic of the man for whom this place was so special, a man claimed by
Hawaii and its people. Eddie Aikau’s board was mid circle and Billy spoke of his legacy, the energy and his enduring spirit. A force strong enough to bring so many special ones to this hollowed place every year for the hope of a contest where waters reach the heavens (at least 20 feet as measured from the rear by Hawaiian Standards – about 40 feet faces anywhere else in the world).
Among them along the circle sat Eddie’s brother,
Clyde, and surrounding them were many of Eddie’s family, friends and like us, guest and locals, drawn to this place by his humanity. Inside this spiritual circle worked some of worlds top lens men, who would also charge into the surf among the invited, to record the moments for those of you who could not be here.
The Hokule’a, the ’70’s voyaging canoe where Eddie last served, awaited this group of surfers. So significant as this very canoeplayed a significant role in Eddies life. It was spectacular for us and it to be here, on this 25th anniversary. As the story goes, when this canoe ran into trouble in foul weather on its voyage to Tahiti, it was Eddie who volunteered to paddle his board on the rough seas back to
Lanai to secure help to save the crew. Eddie was never seen again. Yet here was the Hokule’a, with its crew and many, many paddlers going for it, in memory of Eddie. (See Pics on http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/eddie/
).
They gathered their boards, now blessed, wearing presented lei’s and holding ti leaves, they entered at the shore at Waimea for the long paddle out. Reunited with each other and along the back of the Hokule’a they hold hands and form a paddle circle and in quiet prayer send their gifts along the waves.
We found ourselves talking to Dino, a part-time Los Angeles County Lifeguard for the last 32 years, who’s watches out over Sapphire and the Avenues, (
Redondo Beach, CA.) just a short distance from where we live. Like us, he’s made it here to be a witness and share this moment, to honor a man we’ve never met.
The nature of today serves to remind me about the measure of a man that can have such a profound affect to those who love and lost him, who continue this legacy in his name to remind us about heroism, the nature of the sea and that which speaks to this men who take to it, to surf it, to ride it to become so much a part of the essence of“Ha” –Breath of Life ,“wa” –the water and “i’i ” – the eel or god.
Quicksilver has sponsored “The Eddie’, the worlds largest big wave surf contest, for these 25 years and this year Monster entered as a secondary sponsor. Competitors remain on standby from today to Feb. 23 should this famous contest take place. Word about town is that this Saturday or Monday will be the day.
The Photogs got a great shot of team rider, Theo Fedoruk, at BirdRock this last weekend during our massive swell.
Here is an excerpt from Theo that explains what the photos missed:
After the photo, I continued to bottom turn up into the middle of the wave, grabbed rail and got a short, but sweet shack. Nothing like the potetial tubes out there, as you can undoubtbly see from the other photos. However, still stoked given that it wasn’t so easy to get waves given the # of local boogies, large clean up sets, and gnarly take offs. We can’t all be Damien Hobgood (who I hear was absolutely ripping…)
Here is an excerpt from the photographer, John Cocozza:
Massive South Swell hits San Diego 07042009 Surfing Photos by John Cocozza Photography
“Out of Respect to the Locals this spot in San Diego will go un-named.
If You Don’t Where It Is ? The Locals would say, ” Thats cause you don’t belong here? “
The reason being? Cause they don’t need a kook paddling out somewhere they don’t belong. Hence putting the guys who can actually ride this wave in danger or in a position they need to risk their lives to save some idiot who should of never paddled out.
To the select few who were out riding.. and were dodging solid 10 foot clean ups closing out for 100 to 150 yards.. You guys are truly the Waterman of our San Diego surf break…”
I am not sure how many of you guys are familiar with the social networking site, LinkedIn. For those of you not in the “know” it is basically a facebook for business professionals. I got a very interesting update today via linked in from Jeff Clark as he is in my freinds list via Mavericks Surf. Enjoy.
Statement from
Jeff Clark, Mavericks Founder
June 25, 2009
“Over the past several years, it has been obvious that my vision and priorities are not in line with those of Mavericks Surf Ventures. I have had in the past, and continue to have, strong differences of opinion with the present CEO and Board about the direction, image and priorities of the company and the contest.
“The press release issued by Mavericks Surf Ventures this week stating that I ‘stepped down’ and I am ‘passing the torch to the next generation’ is wrong. The reality is that I was ousted as Contest Director by the current CEO.
“I must also note that, while the company’s news release states that this year’s contest will be held to celebrate ‘the 35th anniversary of Jeff Clark’s first session at the now world-famous break,’ the 35th anniversary is actually next season, in 2010-11. I will not allow the company to use my accomplishment as a marketing tactic.
“Effective today, I have resigned from the Board of Directors of Mavericks Surf Ventures.
“My vision for the Mavericks Surf Contest has been unwavering: it is about the family of big wave surfers, the spirit of the ocean, and this amazing wave. I never wanted that to be compromised for the sake of money or marketing opportunities. I think that focus is obvious to anyone who knows me or who has seen my priorities over the years.
“Mavericks has been an integral part of my personal and professional life for more than 30 years, and I hope that it continues to be a part of both in the future.
“I wake up looking at Mavericks, and I have watched and surfed those waves most of my life. I started the contest 10 years ago, and I can say one thing for sure: Mavericks is Mavericks. The waves will come – or not – when they will.
“The one thing I would truly regret would be to see a committee deciding, based on sponsorship money and media opportunities, when the best day to run the contest would be, and have it turn into just another 10 foot swell with a lot of hype and not a lot of substance. Any true Mavericks surfer wants and deserves a real test of ability.
“I wish everyone well, knowing that Mavericks will always take care of itself.
“I wish I could say more at this time, but I have had limited time to absorb these changes and will have more to say about this situation as things become clearer.”
The new FCS GOODS-1 fin was two years in the making however it took much less time for former World Champion CJ Hobgood to validate the performance of the fin by winning the Billabong Pro at Mundaka in
Spain.The win marks a welcome return to the winner’s podium for the Floridian dynamo who is now sitting in 6th position on the WCT ratings. In an amazing display of versatility CJ was one of the clear standout surfers as the event shifted location from the beach breaks of Sopelana in the early rounds, and then to the grinding left hand barrels of Mundaka. CJ rode the FCS GOODS-1 throughout the entire event effectively giving it his stamp of approval and validating the design, proving the fin is just as good in mushy beach breaks as it is in long down the line barreling waves. In the shifty beach break conditions CJ surfed tight and radical with plenty of flare, then as the event moved to Mundaka his trademark barrel riding prowess and smooth carving style dominated to clinch the title.
“I rode the GOODS-1 the whole event and I also had them in my back up board. I rode it at Sopelana in one foot messy waves and the whole time at Mundaka, it’s really the best all around fin”.The GOODS-1 was developed to meet the demands of CJ and Damien Hobgood and was designed primarily for fast, radical, performance surfing. In the original design brief both brothers were very clear about what they wanted in a signature fin.“We need a fast and responsive fin that has plenty of drive, hold and manoeuvrability that we can use anywhere in the world in a wide range of board sizes”.That said FCS and ‘The Goods’ went to work and after two years of extensive testing the result is a fin they can use at multiple locations as they compete on the ASP World Tour. When the design process was completed Damien remarked, “I’m so stoked we have finally nailed it. I now have an all round fin that feels solid under my feet that I can use from Huntington to
Hawaii”.The GOODS-1 is also the first FCS fin to feature a new ‘Composite Core’ construction. By using a moulded core insert coupled with a resin transfer moulding process, FCS was able to produce a fin that guarantees precision and accuracy. This construction method also gives the fin the flex properties of a traditional fibreglass fin while significantly reducing the weight.CJ is obviously not the only pro surfer riding the new GOODS-1. Twin brother Damien along with fellow countryman Timmy Reyes, whooften travels with the Hobgoods, have also been riding the fin extensively throughout the year with great success. After the Mundaka event CJ commented on some of his fellow competitor’s choice of fins. “Timmy Reyes was riding them in all his heats and I even tried to get Kelly on a set but he switched to his quad in that heat. He should have listened to me…”The FCS GOODS-1 fin was recently released to the market and is available for pick up at www.phaseonesurf.com. Just click HERE.Pick up the fins from us here: http://www.phaseonesurf.com/product_info.php?products_id=1391
Phase One Surf Team Rider Jeremy Fulmer continues the Phase One Surf Team’s contest domination by scoring first in the Revolt Summer Surf Series Air Show and 4th in the Pro AM held at Pacific Beach
In the Revolt Air Show Jeremy Fulmer took down notables such as Gavin Sutherland and Eric McHenry.
Jeremy was riding his custom Phase One Jeremy Fulmer model hand shaped by Chris Diercks. He was using the FCS PG5 fins.
Congrats Jeremy!
For interest in getting a quote for a Jeremy Fulmer Model Surfboard email sales@phaseonesurf.com
Big Congratulations to Phase One Surf team rider Theo Fedoruk on winning the seventh event of the Sun Diego / Monster Energy in Ocean Beach.
Surf was 3-5 feet and Theo dominated the entire day. Theo rides a custom Phase One Surfrboard hand shaped by Chris Diercks in San Diego.
Theo has been surfing very well in the contest scene recently. Coming in 7th at NSSA Nationals and also making the semi-finals in the previous Sun Diego Surf Contest.
I asked Theo to put something together to describe the experience:
The competition was especially difficult, given that several of the Pro Juniors had entered the event.
During my heats: I tried to stay confident and wait for the good waves.
When you’re surfing in a heat against someone that is better than you, you gotta surf every wave as good as you can, and rip it.
I got a some good waves during my heats and surfed them well.
An awesome Phase One surfboard, a positive mental state and confidence goes a long way…Special Shout out to Adrian, the one who makes sure you have the BEST equipment, and to Chris Diercks, the ULTIMATE surfboard shaper!Keep it up Theo!
Ever since JAWS was released swimmers, surfers, and ocean dwellers have feared sharks…I taught surfing lessons for 7 years at UCSD and every year and in every surfclass I ran the shark subject came up.
Are there sharks out there?
Will they attack us?!
I always tell the truth.“Yes, there are sharks in the ocean but No they will not attack.”Obviously there are shark attacks and they are not a laughing matter.However, shark attacks are not a common occurrence.
There have been 111 shark attacks reported from California between 1950 and 2005, with *10 fatal.
Sharks are in the ocean and many surfers have encountered them however the point of this blog is that surfers new and old should probably have more concern with the reckless Funboarder or the non leash wielding weekend warrior than potential shark danger.
Are the shark fears behind you now?
Are you searching for more reasons to fear the ocean?
For your enjoyment I have put together a list of other reasons to FEAR the ocean…
“Candiru” Better Known As…The Penis Fish!
The candirú parasitizes other fish. It swims into the gill cavities of other fish, erects a spine to hold itself in place, and feeds on the blood in the gills, earning it a nickname as the “vampire fish of Brazil”. In 2004, research determined that candirú do not suck blood, but rather latch on to an artery and have blood pumped into them.
It is feared by the natives because it is attracted to urine,and if the bather is nude it will swim into an orifice (the vagina and even the penis—and deep into the urethra) and because of spines protruding from the fish, it is almost impossible to remove except through surgery. The fish locates its host by following a water flow to its source and thus urinating while bathing increases the chance of a candirú homing in on a human urethra. Natives have also been known to bathe facing the current, as doing so would decrease the chances of the organism lodging itself in the rectum.Other orifices such as the penis or vagina are covered up with the use of hands.
Surfing Alligators (and Crocodiles)
Alligators don’t surf but they hang out at beaches…
They are notorious around Costa Rica river mouths in the Playa Hermosa and surrounding areas.This was made famous in the Witch’s rock excerptfrom endless summer 2 where they referenced “floating logs”
Alligators don’t just show up in the surf in tropical Central America.For all you Georgia surfers…
A few weeks ago I got an email from Phase One Surf supporter and rider Mike Villa. He asked me if Phase One Surf was big in Canada…I said we ship quite a few boards across the border. He then followed up with a link to a spread in Canada’s largest surf magazine SBC Surf. I was stoked to literally see a 2 page photo spread with a surfer with our board charging some northern snow covered surf in the Great Lakes. Yes..I said snow, great lakes, and surf in the same sentence.
And You are afraid of Sharks?!
“Candiru” Better Known As…The Penis Fish!
Surfing Alligators (and Crocodiles)