Scott Valor Surf Journal BARBADOS
Thursday, November 27th, 2008
Hey guys! Scott Valor is traveling/surfing in Barbados again and although we don’t have any pictures or videos we figure your mind can paint the picture.
UPDATE! Scott has posted a series of photos on his Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65001&l=ca64d&id=645726945#/album.php?aid=65001&id=645726945&l=ca64d
Right now it’s been epic here. They had a great October and there’s more now and coming. Here’s why: Normally Barbados gets “all” swells from the basic straight east trade wind swell always, to the southeast tropical wave stuff in the summer, to the NE swell from the north atlantic now. What’s rare is North WEST swell that generates itself off the coast of Florida and comes straight down on the island. The result is that rather than having NE swell wrap around to the west side (just do the geography), the swells hit the north and west dead on and normally flat (and I mean dead flat scuba diving) areas on the west light up. Now, for most Bajans, just like us here, they go to the regular spots–kinda like the parking lot in front of porto, 26th, mb pier. But when you have NW so many out of the way spots break that take just a little bit more work to get to, but are insane. I surfed Duppies yesterday. Not a secret spot, but requires the right swell direction. From where I am near Soup Bowl, it takes about 30 minutes to get to–main roads (such as they are on an island) and some tracks (what they call paths or dirt roads). Anyway, minor effort (less than for us to drive to Malibu) and I pull up to what is mash up of Laniakea and Big Drakes (Hollister Ranch). Offshore, faces 5-7 foot, and only me and my friend Kenny Ward there. We paddle out to point break-like rights that are about 200 yards long. Two hours until the sun sets. Rural area with jungle right down to the water. You walk a steep path down like 1/2 the Black’s walk to a tiny beach cove for an easy paddle out. In my 28 years of surfing, it’s a top 10, maybe 5. Shitting myself with the quality and just me and Kenny. Plenny other spots like it, but this is an unknown place unless you know locals. I do. I’m lucky. No photos because Kenny drives an open Land Rover (like a Jeep), so I didn’t want to leave it in the car. But more NW coming, so I’ll bring the camera next time.